Tomorrow is Friday and it is the beginning of the fourth wild mushroom conference here in Juzcar. There are 250 people signed up for this weekend and so we are wondering how the infrastructure here in the village will hold up. The weather has been quite nice these last few days and there was rain during last weekend so I expect that there should be quite a few mushrooms about to find on Saturday when the participants break up into groups and go off into the countryside in search of the various types of mushrooms out there. All very exciting.

Ivan is preparing another seasonal weekend menu that will feature mushrooms and chestnuts; this has proven quite popular with our clients in the last couple of weekends. While we expect lots of people, I think there will be fewer coming for lunch on Saturday as there will be free food available from the conference organisers. I think we will have more people looking for dinner than lunch which means lots of tapas.

The chestnuts are changing the color of their leaves now which is on time first the first time in three years. Last year and the year before, the leaves were full green until late November due to the temperatures we were enjoying and the lack of rain. This year we have already had a couple of seasonal rain storms and there is more rain in the forecast for Sunday coming. Meanwhile, the chestnuts changing colors are dramatically improving the look of the valley, it is simply put, gorgeous right now. With the brilliant low sun, the shadows from the smoke of the burning which has now started again, the autumnal feeling is strong, sort of reminds me of a New England feel.

The plumes of smoke started rising again not long ago, perhaps less than a week. The chestnuts have all been collected and so the process of trimming the trees of small and new growth for next season has begun. The plumes of smoke from the controlled burns will last well into February. Of course the leaves will be burnt in time as well, once they have fallen from the trees and that should not be long now.

Since the beginning of October, things have really improved here in the Alto Genal. We here at the Bandolero have been quite busy with the hotel full for the long holiday weekend just past plus passing trade, something we have not really seen for the whole of this year. It is quite good to see this traffic returning to the Genal Valley as we were feeling a bit lost for a few months there.

We are also getting a bit of attention from the local provincial government. Since the December 2009, there have been some improvements to this area which are encouraging. New signs for the Serrania de Ronda have popped up on the edges of the region. New signs about the bird life in the Serrania have been installed as well and it is also nice to see that they have been well made. By that I mean the signs are actually different in each location as the bird life is also different in the various locations. So it is nice to see that a real effort has been made in these informational signs; there are also regional information signs that have been installed and they are also, like the bird life signs, bi-lingual, Castilian and English. Good to see the signs are tourist friendly for those who do not speak the local tongue.

We have also been informed by the mayor, David, that a project to improve the roads has begun. This means that our access road to the valley from the main road (Ronda-San Pedro) should be widened and re-surfaced which it really needs. When I was taken by ambulance on this road with what turned out to be three broken ribs on 01 July 2008, I felt every bump in the road until we arrived at the main road and there were lots of bumps .... so much so that the accompanying nurse gave me a small shot of morphine on the way. So!, a road improvement programme should bring many more people into this area, along with the improved road signs.

We also had a bit of a Halloween party here in the village on Sunday evening last. Ivan and I decided we should make an appearance and so we went in the company of our temporary waiter and friend, Diana (she has been thankfully coming to help out since the group of American painters were here in early October). When we arrived down at Juzcar's Pub "Punto y Aparte", we were really surprised when we saw all the young men of the village dressed as female witches ...... in high heels no less. They had on lots of make-up, wigs, short red dressed with black tights; some were in cute little flats while others were in high heeled booties with fur around the ankles.... that struck me as quite hilarious. I was impressed with their sense of humor as three or four of them came up to Ivan and I and greeted us with hugs!! Very amusing1 And then they proceeded to dance the evening away with each other, with their some real female witches and others in the Pub. There was also a chestnut roast going on just outside the entrance so we had a couple of sweet chestnuts as well to accompany our cocktails.

Last weekend, we had a full hotel for three nights during the Feast of All Saints national holiday. We had three families with children who spent their days in the countryside looking for mushrooms and exploring the area, they told us they had a wonderful time and really enjoyed this gorgeous area.

So another busy weekend coming with lots of food to prepare. Diana arrives tomorrow evening to help out again. Her mother is an artist and we have some of her work on display in the art gallery, hopefully we may even sell some of it this weekend. Here's hoping.

On Wednesday, Ivan and I, along with my sister Maria and her two kids, Devon and Daniel, we undertook an adventure in Ronda.

The Guadalevin River passes through Ronda and has also cut the famous Tajo gorge. The river was cleaned up within the last couple of years including a new waste treatment plant so the water is actually clean. We all donned wet suits with boots, harnesses and helmets. We followed our monitor & guide, David Aguilar, who undertakes this adventure with clients for 65€ per person, all equipment included, who lead us into the entrance to this river. Eventually we arrived at the first cascade with height of 30 meters that we were to descend. The height was a bit higher than I realized having done this sort of activity only once before in La Sima del Diable in Juzcar.

Walking along the Tajo gorge and looking up one could see tourists looking down, a funny reverse situation. We passed the cave that leads up into the Sultan's old mansion and passed under the three Ronda bridges (not in the order of construction) that cross the gorge; the first was built by the Moors, the second by the Romans and the last was the famous "Puente Nuevo" built in the 18th century. Very interesting terrain, mainly clean refreshing water running through the river bed with these very impressive cascades.

There were a couple of good sized pools along the way where one could jump from the top of a rock high above the water's surface for a good splash which my 14 year nephew enjoyed very much. It was a bit scary at first, turning your back to the edge of what was basically a cliff with running water. Clipping into the rope with the harnesses we were wearing and then feeding rope through the clips as we walked backwards down the cliff face with the rope holding us from dropping like stones. The first cascade with the height of 30 meters or 100 feet, was quite high actually. My sister and niece were taken aback as they had never done something like this before but were willing to give it a go, Daniel was excited and Ivan later said he was also a bit frightened but managed as he was the first to go so he could hold the rope on the bottom as the rest of us descended. I too was surprised at the height when seeing it from above but managed to basically throw myself off the edge, backwards, to descend the rope attached to the harness of course. As said, Ivan went first, then Daniel followed who managed to get down quite quickly for an inexperienced 14 year old; Devon followed, then Maria and myself.

With that heigh, the descent would not be for the light hearted; Devon had a problem with the second cascade having had the courage to descend from the first one. The problem was one could not see where you were supposed to descend making it that much scarier than the first where one could see where one was going, that even with a lot of water showering down on your head. In the end, she had to come down with David's assistance as she was too frightened to do it herself. The rest of us managed but I too was a bit frightened at the start. Once one got going, it was fun, jumping into the pools as well and swimming in this verify fresh water in a unique setting in Ronda. From the bottom, looking back up, the cascades did not look as scary as when looking down from above. So an adventure I would recommend to anyone wanting something different to do in the Serrania de Ronda. Photos to follow when available from David!

The weather changes these days so unpredictably. Here we are almost at the summer solstice and the weather feels cooler than in early May. Apparently up in Avila where Ivan's family live, it has been winter like and they are ll fed up with the cold weather already. That is better than the rain that came down in eastern Andalusia last week causing flooding in some areas. The rain in Spain this year has been really bad, that is a concept that a cousin of mine called Kate, just could not get her head around, "all that because of a little rain?" she asked. When you see house with water up to the roof, that is not quantified as "a little rain" and everyone who has experienced this will agree with me.

I fixed the channel of water we have behind the hotel on Thursday which was a lot more work than I thought it would be. This started off as only a run off of the water that accumulates in this well structure behind the hotel. It is a cave really with water deposit area, the water is simply there, accumulating with lots of frogs living in it. In February, there was so much water run off, as there is also a run off from the hillside behind the hotel and the water should drain into a large drain pipe beneath the pool terrace. Because there was so much rain this winter, the water was running off in all directions as it was not channeled, thus causing damp to develop along the back wall of the hotel where the restaurant is located, ugly black damp causing the paint to peel as well.

I went out there one day when there was not much rain, and scrapped a channel for the water to follow and it worked quite nicely. A bit later, Ivan built a pond to be filled with this water, a very nice idea. He dug a hole and lined it with cement and then built a small wall around the edges with left over bricks from when we built the flat in the hotel. Then he had the idea that the water channel could be something more interesting than just a dirt channel. He thought a Moorish idea would work here; that is a channel made of old roof tiles with the water flowing through to the pond. He work diligently to make it work but he made one mistake, he used sand to hold the tiles in place. Sand is porous so it does not hold water well and thus the water starting leaking in various directions including back against the wall of the hotel.

This all happened in mid-April and then we had the group for the Scottish weekend, then the weather changed and it was not nice to be working outside, and then we had other clients and we were too tired to fix it. So I finally got myself organised and went out there on Thursday and it looks like it is fixed, no mud puddles near the channel, no water seeping against the back wall of the hotel. Actually, it looks lovely now, the water now goes from the spring to the pond to the run off which is perfect. And I lined it with a small fence and some rocks as well giving it a manicured appearance. Now all I have to do is get myself together to plant those last few flowers before the wilt in their tiny plastic store pots. Funny how they don't last so long once they've left the nursery if they are not planted fairly soon. I also moved a couple of the potted bougainvillea and put them into the ground behind the hotel and they are all doing well and even starting to flower which is nice to see the color there.

In fact the whole appearance of the hotel is quite smart at the minute. With the change to the color red, the name of the hotel really pops out when one arrives in Juzcar, even with the white jasmine, wisteria and grape plant climbing wildly higher and higher on that corner of the hotel. It is looking very sharp.

Ivan had to get rid of one of the barrels with fish in it from the bar terrace, not dispose of it but change its usage. Unfortunately, due to the age of the barrel, it developed a leak that slowly got worse and worse and was no longer worthwhile refilling it when it reached a certain level. So that barrel now holds some interesting cacti with soil and the fish have been transplanted to the pond.

We are trying to keep ourselves busy as the bookings are a bit thin these days, even worse in June and July which is normally a slow time in the Serrania de Ronda. In fact, the hotel two villages over from here in Alpandeire has closed for six weeks from mid-June as has a popular restaurant in Benalauria, one of the lower valley villages. Strange how one village can be bustling and the next one over, a few kilometres away is almost dead. Juzcar feels that way at the minute, dead. We have not had much in the way of passing trade for lunch in a few weeks now and it is a bit, well, very actually, frustrating. In the past, we have had groups of bikers calling in for lunch or at least two or three tables on a Sunday for lunch at this time of year however this year, it is even slower than previous years or at least it feels that way. This economic situation is really getting old now. We have heard stories of the offers hotels are making on the Costa del Sol because they, the hotels, are all mostly empty. Offers such as "full board" for 20 Euros a night, crazy offers but when you have 500 rooms to fill you can make crazy offers like that.

We on the other hand, with only eight rooms to fill, cannot follow that lead. I did have summer offers for these two slow months on our website but had only one taker, reliable, loyal and returning clients, a couple who love this area very much for walking and think there is plenty yet to do here, this after being here at least four times already. And this time, they introduced us to a couple of their friends who now live in Almeria. We had a very nice visit with them last week, in fact, Bill took Ivan's cooking class the last time they were here last autumn. Now, I guess we still have offers as people still don't have that much disposable income and/or are more discerning in their expenditures but this is getting to be very boring when there are little to no people about at all. So much for a better 2010 than 2009!! It seems to us it is worse this year than last.

On that note I shall close this little entry... until next time. Hasta pronto.

I have today revised my layout of this blog, it now includes a music player with a few tracks to enjoy while reading... or not, one can turn it off as well.

We had a few days without bookings last week so we took ourselves for a couple of nights to Seville and stayed at a nice hotel in the old Jewish barrio called Santa Cruz. The hotel was comprised of 18 former private residences connected with many passages and tunnels, very interesting. The hotel also had a lovely spa which I fully enjoyed.

We are now getting quite busy once again as this is a holiday weekend starting this afternoon, I suppose. We have a two couples who are clients of Butterfly Adventures; they have been enjoying the many walks with their guide, Sandrine, in the upper Valley and the Sierra de las Nieves. With this unseasonably warm weather, they have been having very enjoyable days out. We also have another couple here from our Dutch friends at Hannibal Reisen. They are from Amsterdam and I had to take them to the village of Igualeja yesterday morning where they would start their walk from there back to Juzcar.

On the way to Igualeja, we were chatting about Amsterdam which reminded me of a story about something that happened to me while I first stated living there way back in May 1998. I had arrived to work in Amsterdam in early April 1998 and was staying at the Hotel Grand Krasnapolsky initially. I then took a business trip and upon returning to Amsterdam, found I was moved to what is today called the Renaissance Hotel near the Singel canal in the center. I had gone for a drink with a new friend not far from the hotel and when we returned, we stood not far from the hotel entrance continuing to chat. Meanwhile, two cars pulled up in front of the hotel and out stepped a group of rather large men, all appeared to be possible football player and 1998 was the year of the World Cup. I commented on the men to Dan, the guy I was chatting with. He responded that he thought they appeared to be more of the criminal class. They went into the hotel and shortly thereafter exited again and gathered very near to where we were standing in a circle, so close in fact, that one of them bumped into me from behind.

As I had my back to them, I did not notice what was happening but Dan did. At one point, he said, "Let's go! Move!" and we took off running as gun shots rang out from the group. Because Dan was a bit suspicious, he had been watching the group and he saw what was about to happen. Dan had his bike with him and starting running with it into me, knocking me over with it. As I fell, I tried to hold myself up with my right hand which wound up scrapping severally against the bricks on the street, providing a very nice open skin wound. As I ran along the front of the hotel toward the restaurant which had an entrance to the street, shots were ringing around me. I tried to enter the restaurant but they had already locked the door and would not let anyone in (they did not know me so they would not let me in... nice, eh?). So there I am on the street with these gangsters. I ran for cover behind a cement column in front of the hotel covering my head with my arms and hands.

When it was quiet, I looked up toward the hotel main entrance thinking I could get inside the hotel for cover but there was a gun man there holding a pistol aimed across the street. I ducked down and waited a moment or two before deciding to run out of the area completely in the opposite direction from the hotel entrance. I took off toward the corner away from the gunman, around the corner and then toward the Sheraton Hotel in the Nieuwezijds Kolk (now a Goldenb Tulip property) to get off the street. In running away, I passed one of the gunmen who was himself escaping the gunfire but was covered with blood from the waist down. I entered the hotel and went straight to the front desk holding my injured hand and quite distressed. I told them there was a shooting and they thought I had been shot, of course.

After they called for medical assistance and the police, I was accompanied into a meeting room near the reception area where they kindly offered me some coffee while I waited for the paramedics to come. After the paramedics attended me (leaving my wound open was their advice, a raw skin wound treated only with some antiseptic leaving it to become infected later requiring more medical attention at a hospital!!), I was accompanied by a rather handsome Amsterdam detective to the nearby police station where he wanted to take my statement. By this time, it must have been after 1.30AM as the shooting occurred around midnight. I was kept at the station for at least an hour and then was accompanied, on foot, back to the hotel. There, I saw the street was still closed to traffic and there were plenty of little triangles with numbers covering spent bullet shells. The detective told me that over 25 shots had been fired and they thought it was pretty miraculous that only those involved were shot with no injuries (aside from my hand) to innocent by-standers.

One of the gang members was killed on the spot, I was told. He had been shot several times from the waist down and died there on the street in front of the hotel. It seems this group that arrived while Dan and I were there in front of the hotel was a second coming. They had stopped by earlier for a meeting but the other party had not shown up. This was known by watching the CCTV video tape of the hotel entrance. They returned to find the other party; during their discussions, one of the group got nervous and tried to pull out his gun and all hell broke loose as they all started to shoot each other. They were all well known to the police of course and the problem they had involved marijuana sales and prostitution, of course.

So, that is the story of my first weeks in Amsterdam. Me, a New Yorker, who lived in New York City for 26 years including the Bronx, Queens and Manhattan, and had never witnessed a shooting or even had seen a gun on the street except in holsters of street police. I arrive in "quiet, little" Amsterdam and witness a murder. Wow, was that a surprise. Anyway, needless to say that I did not go to work the following day. I checked out of the hotel a 2 days later as I was nervous that I would be a targeted witness; I was later assured by police that I was safe and not to worry; there were more than a couple of dozen witnesses to the shooting so I did not need to worry.

A few weeks later, I was requested to come to the police station on the Marnixstraat to watch a video line-up; fortunately I recognized no one. Even later, I was requested to be a witness at a trial.... for the defense. At this point in time, more than 10 years later, I do not recall specifically what happened when I appeared in court except that I was informed that I would be compensated by the city for my testimony, provided my bank details and the funds, a mere 30 Guilders at that time, never did appear in my bank account, ever.

After court, I ran into Dan, the first time I had seen him since the shooting. He told me he ran down an alley and was dead-ended there for a few minutes. Hidden for a short time, when things went quiet, he managed to get out and bike himself home without any injuries. As for my injury, I had escaped to Brussels the following weekend to get out of town for a couple of days to forget the experience. There, I realised I required further medical attention and went to a local clinic where they dressed and bandaged my wound and told me to keep it covered until it healed a bit more as it was quite raw and should have been dressed and bandaged from the start to prevent infection.

Despite this experience, I would recommend Amsterdam to anyone. It is a lovely city, small and manageable yet international with lots on offer.

Other news, big mushroom weekends coming up here in Juzcar in November as well as a yoga weekend on offer at the end of October. The weather is quite good and the chestnuts are all starting to fall, ripe for the picking. I understand up in Holland, the leaves have changed color already, something we are still waiting to happen in the Genal Valley.

And finally, as for those very adorable puppies, all but one have new homes. The last one is in a shop in Ronda waiting.

We went for a drive through the hills the other, something we have not done enough of since we have been here. Exploring the mountains is fun... driving along these narrow dirt tracks trying to find your way somewhere you're not sure of. Here is a photo I took of the view from one of the points we arrived at.

You can see Juzcar to the right of the photo and the village of Farajan to the left. We were in amongst a gorgeous pine forest with summer forest fragrance, pine and orange blossoms. It was quite warm as well as you might see from the photo... to me, it looks hot.

Here is another photo of the chestnut trees now in full flower, a bit later than normal but they are pretty stunning to see. This photo only shows the canopy of the trees in flower but that is what I think looks so impressive.

The weather has gone hot now although there is a bit of cloud today, the temps are still quite warm. Yesterday in Ronda, after we delivered the wedding cake Ivan made, the temperature there in the car registered at 45C!! Not the real temp but close... a hot day yesterday.

Ivan made a three tiered wedding cake for an English wedding which took place a the Hotel Molino del Puente in Ronda. That hotel is run by an English couple and they get a lot of wedding business. Elaine, one half of the couple, is recommending us to her clients for the wedding cakes as she was not impressed with the cakes she has seen in Ronda. We are now waiting the feedback after the event but here is a photo of the cake:

Ivan is now finishing off a couple of communion cakes to be delivered for 1.00-ish today for a couple of families in the village of Farajan. We seem to do a lot of cakes for the people of Farajan and almost nothing for the people of Juzcar! Funny that... the village we live in does not give us much custom at all while the other villages are better patrons to us!

We have a couple from Madrid with us for a few nights as well as a family from Copenhagen. The hotel is almost full tonight which is very good because June is the second worst month of the year... July being the worst (slowest). That said, we have some offers on.... all rooms available in the hotel for only 55 Euros per night including continental breakfast and tax for two!! What an offer, eh?

Then next week, I am taking a few days to go to New York and catch up with a few friends and family. I've not been home since my Mom died a couple of years back (already)! I think I will be busy as I want to see quite a few people and I've only got 10 days. Plus I will be cycling with my nephew down that bike trail along the west side of Manhattan, something I am really looking forward to. Ivan's parents arrive tomorrow to be here to keep him company and help out while I am away... isn't that so very nice of them to come and be here so I could go to NY for a few days. Paz, Ivan's mom, is not a fan of the heat at all but she'll be here for a couple of weeks anyway.

Then in July, as it is the slowest month of the year, we are closing for a long weekend and going to Ivan's town up in Avila for the first couple of nights of the town's annual fiesta! That will be a nice break from here as well and it won't be as hot up there as it is here so another break from the heat for a couple of days. I really enjoy the heat as long as it is dry heat.

Please tell a friend about our offers for June and July as the pool is just perfect now.

Juzcar, pronounced 'hooth-car' or 'who-th-car' or as I like to say, 'whose-car?'. Have I put a photo of this village on this blog yet... I think not so here's a photo of Juzcar.

This is the first photo of the village that I took on the day that we passed through the village after viewing the hotel for the first time back in August 2004. We arrived in Spain from London on 12 August 2004. By 30 August we had identified this property here in Juzcar as the one we would most likely purchase and low and behold here we are... a bit more than two years later.

The hotel had been for sale for a while and the previous owner was desperate to sell it, or so we are told. He had lots of debts and his wife did not want to stay in Juzcar where he was from. they also had three children attending school in Malaga so on the block the hotel went.

We got the contract agreed by the end of September, early October, which actually wasn't that long. We arrived in Juzcar on 12 October 2004, after a long holiday weekend. One mistake I think we made was not to come back here again after our initial visit. Very green we were... it didn't even dawn on us that we should have done a bit more research but then again had we done that, we probably would not have come here. I don't regret our purchase of this hotel but I do wish we had done more research before we arrived.

This is what the exterior of the hotel looked like in the first days after we arrived in Juzcar...

Notice how boring the terrace looks... no plants on the outside of the railing, no tables or chairs, a curtain hanging in the window over looking the terrace, an ugly restaurant sign with arrow, not many plants on the terrace. What you don't see is that the doors to the bar are opaque so one cannot see inside nor from inside to the outside... strange I thought to have it so. And the bar was equally boring with ugly things hanging on the walls, not much personality.

So we've made a few changes for the better since we arrived but as we look at the old photos now and see what we have achieved and what we want to do still, we just don't know when we will be able to afford to get the changes made. Poco a poco as they say here.

Here's a photo of the terrace in September 2006...

Much better now, no?

So, I'm back in Juzcar. As I predicted, I missed the connection due to the tight timing... thanks Iberia! I wound waiting another 2 hours for the next flight. The flight itself from NY to Madrid was uneventful... I slept most of the way which was good.

It's been raining here in Malaga since I left. Not today though. We had a few tables for lunch. It was just me and Ivan... him cooking, me running around. Four tables in the bar, one on the terrace and one in the restaurant with seven people. Good business today. And the hotel is almost full tonight (seven of eight rooms booked). We had two bookings when the day began, then a phone call and wham, another booking for 3 rooms... and a short while later, a couple dropped in and asked for a room. We only had the suites left so they took one of them, Room 11, the nicest and biggest room we have. Then they had lunch. Busy day so far.

And I've been cleaning and reorganising things that were not done while I was gone. First the money, then reorganising things in the bar and sweeping the floor in the restaurant... que sucio (how dirty)!! And today it was very hot and humid so I was sweating.

Last night the village had a power black out and then on and then black out and then on and then black out. ..etc. We tried to watch a movie but that was not a good idea. So we sat at home with candles going with the dogs. There was a lot of wind which I think was part of the problem. We have a generator in the hotel which cost a bomb and we have not yet used it. Also I think I should put candles in the rooms so that our guests don't find themselves in the dark when the lights go out! So many little things to take care of.

Also, the phone line for the fax, credit card machines and this computer is not working! At the moment I am on-line because I'm using our main telephone line which means no one can call at the moment. I called Telefonica yesterday and they said the technician dept. would call but they haven't. Oh, today is Saturday, I guess they don't work on Saturdays. I don't expect that to be repaired until Monday or Tuesday then so I'll have to juggle our talk phone line with the PC to get our emails. (and write a blog entry or two).

Well must run as someone may be trying to call us!!!